Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Taksim square

We had agreed to meet at Taksim square and proceed to the 5 Cats (Cat means "Floor" ) for dinner with Meg's friends.  Where we had taken a picture last night was the meeting point, and that was in front of the monument of the Republic. Baby Kahled walked through the huge square and observed how peaceful it seemed. People were vending and buying, families were enjoying the sun in the park, a great place to be.
When we arrived at the outer circle of the monument, we attempted to pass a few young people near the monument, and we were informed that the monument was closed. I assumed that perhaps they were just closing early for the day, although it was only about 6:30. I walked around the monument in the direction that Meg would be coming from, and I noticed that these young people, and there were probably about 100 of them surrounding the monument, wore shirts indicating that they were police. Unusual I thought. I found Meg, and after a quick hug, and exchange of pleasantries, we agreed to leave the square immediately. We followed her friends down a side street radiating from the square, toward where the restaurant was.
We quickly realized that we were walking against the grain, a flow of students moving toward the square for a demonstration. It was not a problem to pass, and all seemed peaceful. Then on several side streets we spied large numbers of police decked out in helmets, shields, clubs and guns. We were in the middle of something that was suddenly very uncomfortable. We continued toward the restaurant. To turn around would have been to be marching with the demonstrators, and we did not want to do that. Chanting started. Some of the people had hard hats and masks and seemed to be prepared for the worst. We got off the street to assess the situation. When the chanting stopped, we went the final fifty yards or so to the restaurant.
We felt safe there. The trip to the fifth floor was by an elevator that had a two person capacity. The friends gave deference to Meg with the baby, and me the old man. We ascended and then had to take the stairs to the 6th floor roof dining area.
We talked briefly about the street scene. No one really knew what it was about, and the waiters seemed not to know. Certainly they were ignoring it.
The consensus among our group was to enjoy the meal and stay as long as possible.
Meanwhile, out on the streets below, there were shots fired, "fireworks" they called them; tear gas was used; "it is illegal to demonstrate in Turkey"; the crowd was being dispersed before it reached the square.
So what was going on in my mind despite all the pleasantries of conversation? How do we get back to our hotel which was exactly opposite where we were on the other side of the square? What if there is a curfew? Suppose the hotel has closed for the night, and we can't get in. Could we make it back through the side streets? What if we end up in jail?
We stayed until 11:00. The owner and waiters knew the predicament. Meg and some others talked to them to put together a strategy. A couple of the waiters were willing to walk people back to the hotels. The owner called some taxis.
Several taxis arrived. Meg, Khaled, and I were joined in the first taxi by a man named Jim who was staying at a hotel next to ours. It took fifteen minutes for the driver to maneuver through the streets, around the square at a safe distance from the "fireworks", to our hotel, which was open. Jim paid the cab driver, and awarded him a handsome tip.
We entered the hotel, thankful for its safety, and tiredness made us sleep well.
The next day, we found out the reason for the demonstration. Apparently, a young man was killed at a protest in eastern Turkey the day before. He died of injuries consistent with being clubbed. The students in Istanbul were rising up to protest this injustice.
There was not much in the news about this. The people did not seem concerned at all about it. It was not talked about. Perhaps protests are too common. There had been one at Taksim Square every month since May. There was another the next night at a different location in the city despite the illegality of assembly and protest, a right that we cherish in the USA. (more to come)

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